MILAN — Silvia Venturini Fendi plucked heirlooms from an aristocratic household hope chest and embellished them with particulars lengthy launched from the female realm for a highlands-stomping menswear assortment previewed Saturday throughout Milan Vogue Week.
Venturini Fendi mentioned she was impressed by Princess Anne, whom she known as “the chicest girl on this planet,” able to “sustaining her femininity whereas sporting a uniform,” the epitome of masculinity.
Beneficiant overcoats, leather-based wellies and rumpled cloche outlined the outdoorsy Fall-Winter 2024-25 silhouette match for Balmoral. The colour palette recalled a wet day on the highlands: moss, brown, slate grey and maroon, cornflower blue, mustard.
Beneath, free trousers with fairly aspect plisses transition into lengthy pleated Bermuda kilts and low-slung skorts in plaid blanket wool, blurring strains between masculinity and femininity, between tradition-bound aristocracy and modern streetwear.
They had been paired with the best twinsets, or thrice-layered knit tanks, forming a depth of shade.
“I appreciated the concept of breaking boundaries, breaking the masculine and female codes, that don’t exist anymore. They shouldn’t exist anymore,’’ Venturini Fendi, the model’s director of equipment and menswear, mentioned backstage.
The runway temper was informal, off hours. Jackets had been extra typically flung over the arm than worn, a sign that the day’s work was accomplished. Smooth corduroy trousers fell into slit hemlines that flop over thick-soled sneakers. A pillowy bag was tucked underneath the arm. For the night, gentle fits and overcoats with shimmery surfaces and almost sheer lengthy knitwear over trousers gave a contact of decadence.
As is the current Milan development, the Fendi brand appeared sparingly, as geometric repeat sample on checked double-Fs on brilliant prints or protecting a transportable music speaker made in collaboration with French model Devialet.
Venturini Fendi mentioned the gathering is about longevity, creating heirlooms, “to underline clothes for all times, not use and throw away.”